Lara Beckmann “ROSES
Academie Beeldende Kunsten, Maastricht – 2014

My graduation collection is inspired by the Pachucas from the 1940s mixed with the Chicano-Gang-Look from the 70s-90s. Pachuca refers to a particular old school subculture of Hispanic and Latino Americans associated with zoot suits, street gangs, nightlife, promiscuity and flamboyant public behaviour. One very loud version of the Pachuca look entailed wearing the masculine zoot suit, but with modifications to fit the female form. This was very subversive at the time because of the long-held gender roles that dictated how a person should dress.

My concept is based on the idea of creating my own Chicana gang. I liked the idea of creating a bad-ass, sexy, cool women gang with its own hand-sign and gang-colours. In other words: big-zoot-suit-like trousers, denim, strong prints, sexy tops.

The name of my gang is “Roses” – which is inspired by the poem “Woman are not roses” from the Chicana writer Ana Castillo. It reflects the picture of the woman I design my collection for: a woman that cannot be won over by cheesy compliments.

Photo: George Sif
Make-Up/Hair: Hanna Deuss
Models: May Mommertz & Alexandra Shiavone
Assistant: Julia Haack